Step by Step Venice #3 - From Ca' da Mosto to Ponte di Rialto

Hello dear travel lovers. After visiting the historic buildings in the center of Venice, we headed towards the Grand canal. One thing that has remained unchanged since ancient times is that the city's wealthiest people move upon the water. Here the main facades of the buildings always face the Grand canal. Perhaps the most important structure we should have seen was Ca' da Mosto. This is the oldest surviving building on the Grand canal. Its first two floors were built in the thirteenth century with a mixture of Byzantine and Venetian styles. The third floor was added at the beginning of the fifteenth century and the fourth floor in the nineteenth century. Until recently, even in 2019 this building was in a terrible state. Its foundations were destroyed due to flooding and the entire ground floor was damaged. However, in recent years great investments have been made in Ca' da Mosto and now a luxury hotel serves within its walls.

After this, we went to see Ca' d'Oro. This is one of Venice's most beautiful palaces, located right next to Ca' da Mosto. It was built in the fifteenth century and known as the Golden house. This palace took its name from the use of pure gold leaves along with the multi-colored marble inlay technique in its facade decorations. Unfortunately, the gold platings have not survived to the present day. Currently the building houses the Franchetti Gallery and Museum, where Venetian art is exhibited. Of course, there are many more houses on the Grand canal that compete in terms of beauty. Every building here is a work of art. Sometimes you can watch them by walking on the quays, but these paths are usually very short and are cut off every 50 meters. Therefore to enjoy the Grand canal, we must use the vaporettos or feel like aristocrats and rent a gondola.

The gondolas here were colorfully decorated in the Middle ages and until the beginning of the last century, they had a small cabin that protected passengers from bad weather and curious eyes. Today as they are almost entirely a tourist entertainment, their tops are completely open and they have a single design. Perhaps the most well-known part is the ferro, which simply means ironwork. I must admit that the gondolas look especially impressive with it. However, this piece is not just an ornament. The ferro served as protection since the boat used to be boarded from the bow rather than the center. Also it weighs about 30 kilos and functions as a counterweight that balances the gondolier at the back. And contains many symbols. Six teeth represent the six districts of Venice. The other thre decorations symbolize the islands of Burano, Murano and Torcello. There is a seventh tooth facing the opposite direction, which represents the island of Giudecca. The interesting curve at the top symbolizes the headgear of the Venetian ruler, the Doge. The small curve beneath it symbolizes the Rialto bridge. The curve itself going towards the bottom of the gondola is the Grand canal.

When I told my friends that gondolas are more expensive than modern cars, they were astonished. The construction of a gondola requires a cost of approximately 40000 euros. And th final price can go up to 100000 euros. These prices are explained by the use of expensive materials and hand craftsmanship. In the construction of the boats, eight types of wood, including precious mahogany, are used for maneuverability and durability, not just for aesthetics. Since there are many details in gondolas, the assembly process is complex and expensive. Perhaps you have noticed, although it is not easy to notice, gondolas are actually not symmetrical. The left side is 24 cm longer than the right side. This form helps the gondolier keep the boat in balance while in motion. In order for the oar to be used comfortably, a forcola is made for each gondolier according to his height. This wooden device allows local drivers to perform all kinds of maneuvers. Venetian gondoliers are like a separate caste that deserves special attention. It is not easy at all to acquire this profession in Venice. Online courses do not work here. 400 hours of theory, followed by as much practice, tough exams and only after the license can one start work. And that is only under the supervision of a master, as a backup on secluded trips. Now you understand why a half-hour gondola trip is around 100 Euros. This is an expensive entertainment, but I also have good news.

We can feel like locals and use traghettos here. The literal meaning of traghettos is crossing. These gondolas carry people from one side of the canal to the other. this service is needed since the canal is long and wide. And there are only four bridges on it. This crossing costs only 70 cents for the local people but we have to pay 2 euros. Still it is quite cheap and sometimes very practical. For example: you would spend about 40-50 min. walking, if you need to go from Santa Maria della Salute church to San Marco square. But you can use a traghetto for only 2 euros and reach the opposite side in about 2 minutes. In Venice the gondola is not just entertainment, but a real public transport vehicle.

We have reached the Rialto bridge. This is the real symbol of the city, where the local people meet almost evry day. This bridge is located at the intersection of numerous streets. If you need to cross the canal in the center of the city, you will most likely use this bridge. The first wooden crossing over the Grand canal was established right here in the twelfth century. At the end of the sixteenth century, the stone project that has survived to the present day was built. The structure sits on a foundation consisting of about 12000 wooden piles for durability. The bridge is entirely dedicated to pedestrians and has two rows of closed porticos with shops inside.

As I explained in my trips to Italy and France, almost all central bridges in the Middle ages were lively trading areas. That's why it's normal to have shops on the Rialto. Because the bridge has become a natural extension of the market of the same name. Campo San Giacomo di Rialto looks great with its shopping galleries and that nearly thousand year old church. they all just fit together perfectly. The church is decorated with an old Venetian clock. When we looked at it, the clock seemed to show 11:30 am, but it was actually pointing to 17, which means five in the evening. Without knowing these Venetian features, it is really difficult to get used to. But you start to adapt over time.

That's all I have to tell for today. I will continue sharing our discoveries there in my upcoming posts. See you soon.