Lugano Diaries #3 - Parco Ciani and Paradiso

Hello dear travel lovers. It was time for me to return to the city to get to know Lugano's main green area. Parco Ciani was my first stop. I got back on bus number 12 and 10 minutes later I stepped into what felt like a fairy tale.

Parco Ciani is a huge green area stretching along the lake. In the 1840s the Ciani banker brothers from Milan bought this land, built a luxurious villa and created a magnificent landscaped park. A little over 100 years ago, the local government purchased this property from the heirs and turned it into a public park.

The most important spot in the park and perhaps in the entire city, is that gate opening to the lake. Everyone dreams of taking a photo at that exact spot, which is why long lines form here during the peak season. I was here in mid April, which is perhaps the most ideal period to travel to the Italian lakes. The weather was warm, the number of tourists was low, prices had not risen yet and most importantly, the main attraction here is the flowers. Right in April and May the lake bursts into flames of yellow, red, white and of course, purple.

Wisteria is very popular in Southern Europe and especially around Lake Lugano. Its blooming period falls right in April and early May. In Parco Ciani the wisteria first wrapped around a pine tree, then built a bridge with a branch to cross to another, creating a massive choir of flowers. When it blooms, its appearance is simply amazing.

The park itself is also wonderful. There are playgrounds, bike paths, sunbathing and swimming areas and benches with views of the lake and Monte San Salvatore.

The second major walking area is the promenade stretching along the lake toward Paradiso. Although Paradiso is officially a separate municipality, it is effectively a continuation of Lugano and the wealthiest people live here. The biggest reason for this is that the local government set a very low income tax rate by Swiss standards. Thanks to this luxury villas popped up like mushrooms at the foot of San Salvatore.

The name Paradiso meaning Heaven, really does its name justice. On my way toward Heaven I came across the most famous modern building in Lugano. Built in 2015 this cultural center stands out with its architecture. Its most distinctive feature is the massive volume of its exhibition wing floating above the square. And inside the complex, there is an extremely modern concert hall covered entirely in walnut wood to ensure ideal acoustics.

Even an ordinary roundabout can look beautiful. Of course, first and foremost thanks to its view. Very beautiful plants were used in the landscape architecture. Generally as you know, European cities try to avoid traffic lights. They place roundabouts wherever possible so traffic does not stop and we pedestrians can cross easily. In short it is practical for everyone. Especially when traffic is light, vehicles can pass through these roundabouts quickly. So it is quite comfortable for us as well. And it can also be aesthetic.

Another important observation I made about Lugano is the cars. Let me put it this way. I have only seen this many Bentleys and Porsches in Monaco and maybe Cannes. There are really an incredible number of very expensive, luxury vehicles. Despite this, the atmosphere is completely different. At least so far, I have not felt any showiness or pretentiousness. On the contrary, there is more of a corporate feel. Many people are walking around in jackets and suits. Since it was Friday maybe there was a special event, I do not know. On one side there are tourists and on the other, people dressed very elegantly and formally.

But the cars were whispering that Como was very close to us. Well considering real estate prices, services, hotels and restaurants, the costs here are almost at Monaco levels. Everything is very expensive. I decided to go to that famous observation deck on top of Monte San Salvatore.

The easiest way is to take the funicular, which costs 32 Swiss Francs round trip. If you only want to go up, it is 25 Francs. I preferred to take bus number 434 to the Carona Ciona stop and walk from there.

A better start than the beginning of the trail could not be imagined. Stone pavements again, wonderful buildings. Further ahead, there is even a sundial and statues. Unfortunately the rest of the path is just forest. A steep climb was waiting for me.

The elevation difference I had to climb was clearly visible from below. I covered this distance in about 1 to 1.5 hours. The total distance is a little over 2 kilometers and the elevation gain is 300 meters. Coming with hiking shoes is definitely recommended, but you can also walk with regular sneakers. Just do not come with slippers or delicate, light colored shoes.

At the beginning the path is wide and very easy, but as you get closer to the top, sharp stones, uneven ground and narrow passages increase. Even though it rained all day, it was surprising that the path was in almost perfect condition. Although the path was not too difficult, continuous climbing was by no means easy.

And I reached the final point Monte San Salvatore. It is one of the most beautiful observation decks in Switzerland and all of Europe. The bridge crossed by the train coming from Milan to Lugano was visible right across and I had arrived in the city on that very train.

I took a little tour around. The best thing about this deck is that it sits right at the summit, offering a 360 degree panoramic view.

I looked toward Monte Brè. The place I had just climbed stood right across from me. When I walked toward the benches, I also saw Lugano clearly. Lugano is not directly very visible from here. The city view from Monte Brè was perhaps a notch better.

I stood here and enjoyed this beauty. I could see the point where the funicular arrives and the restaurant. A little further to the right was the village of Brè.

I knew this place was amazing and would offer great views, but to be honest I did not expect this much. It cannot even be compared to Monte Brè. Monte Brè is very beautiful, but if you have limited time and only have the chance to go up to one observation deck, I recommend choosing Monte San Salvatore without a second thought.