Jasper National Park: Waterfalls, ice walls and wrong turns in the Sunwapta Valley (Icefield Parkway)

What's buzzin Hive!

Well now that the holiday hype is over I should get back to the last Jasper trip we took before the lockdown if I ever want to finish it! Well, on the second day, we really didn't get to see much being on the shoulder season at the time. Everything was grey and dull, the first few snows have fallen and cover most making photography even more colorless. We did drive up to Maligne Lake just for the sake of going something but both of us were still pretty sore from our last hike in the Mount Robson area, moving around was out of the question! While we were sight seeing from the truck, we have come to know where many of the animals can be found may not a good day for landscape but that leaves more opportunities for wildlife spotting.

Mount Kerkeslin, Icefield Parkway. Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 18 mm, ISO 100

The flow is heavily reduced for winter on the Maligne River but a gentle flow remain

I'll get into more details on the area in a later post since we did get a nice day here before we left but just for now, we will stick to the basics. We wanted to get passed Medicine Lake and right before Maligne Lake, where the moose families tend to come out near or on the road to lick the salt. When driving up here, be mindful of that and sometimes you can't see them until last minute because they blend in very well with their surroundings especially near sundown. Lucky for us, as we were coming back down, a small family emerged from the forest, they were headed for the road but changed their mind last minute after seeing us.

Shot 1/125 sec. f/5.6 130 mm, ISO 280

Shot 1/250 sec. f/4.8 135 mm, ISO 560

We stopped since we were the only ones on the road and of course I came out the sunroof and was able to capture a few sweet moments before the family ran off further down. We gave them time to get away where ever they felt safe before we continued. I get quite a few kicks at seeing large animals react to me coming out of the sunroof, they often seem a little surprised and intrigued, it definitely peeks their interest long enough for me to do my thing. This road is generally a hit for wildlife, near the top with the Moose, groups of Mountain Sheep aka Rams can often be seen climbing the rocky cliffs. At the base of the mountain is a hot spot for elk as they lounge in the plains enjoying the tall grass, they are pretty good around people as long as proper safe distances are kept, they wont even get up on your account. I have spotted deer walking thru the burned remains and an eagle nest not to far way, I have yet to see the eagle that lives in it...Maybe someday, the Maligne regions can be a little slow at revealing her beautiful secrets.

Shot 1/400 sec. f/5 185 mm, ISO 400

Taken by Talbot Lake. Shot 1/500 sec. f/5.6 78 mm, ISO 200

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 40 mm, ISO 180

That pretty much concluded the second day. Not really much of a post so shall we just roll into the third day? Still pretty foggy like most mornings, I could see the sun trying to shine thru, perhaps this would be a good day for actual sight seeing. We were waiting for clear blue skies to go out on our hikes along the Athabasca River network and waterfalls and since it was still a bit of a drive for us, we made sure that was a sure bet. We didn't plan many activities because much of it closes for winter along with covid restrictions. Certain things are on migratory patterns of endangered species and are closed off for their travel. We really didn't know what to expect, it varies from town to town as each have individual by-laws.

Round Rock, Jasper. Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 34 mm, ISO 200

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 40 mm, ISO 125

One thing almost always open? The breathtaking and the one and only Icefield Parkway. Deemed one of the most beautiful highways in the world seeing millions of tourist each year seemed deserted, so far this trip, the town was nearly empty, the trails were empty, it was a great time for locals to be here. No bus loads after bus loads of chaotic tourists bursting out like ants out of an anthill...This is how the Rockies were meant to be enjoyed! We love you guys but I think it will give the land time to recoup from all the visitor stress it has endured over the years.

Athabasca River. Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 40 mm, ISO 180

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 22 mm, ISO 140

Just outside of the town of Jasper this road takes us along the Athabasca River snaking thru some of the tallest mountains and isolated back country along the Sunwapta Valley. It's the highway that connects to Lake Louise via the Columbia Icefields and the equally scenic Bow Valley Parkway. Except for Lake Louise, there is nothing but wilderness and sight seeing along the way bring food and water, first aid, extra blankets, shovel could be helpful as things can get pretty messy in a hurry and there isn't always cell reception and could take a while to get rescued in the event and don't forget to check road conditions.

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 16 mm, ISO 200

Visitors often take the easy option of driving forever all day to see as much as possible and only quickly stop at a few key features but miss much of it's not that well kept secrets. Like the Maligne region, the Sunwapta Valley is another vast national treasure. As the glaciers of the Columbia Icefields melt, they feed the Athabasca river that remains mostly active year round but much slower in winter (still intimidating) and makes it's way back towards the town down a network of waterfalls. Any of the water you see thru this network is actually our drinking water in Edmonton and much of northern Alverta. Yes I have #watertested strait from the glacier, it's fresher than fresh, just don't drink it strait from the river but rather where the water comes fresh from the glacier or from an underground source.

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 10 mm, ISO 180

The first one we always visit, also our favorite is closest to town, the iconic Athabasca Falls. With a spectacular backdrop of Mount Kerkeslin with an altitude of almost 10 000 feet, no wonder this is a world favorite. There is a network of trails in every direction to explore further but most do the fast tour around the waterfall that takes less than 20 minutes and is easily accessible to any level of fitness being mostly flat and steep areas manicured with stairs. In the winter, bring cleats for better traction, it doesn't take long for snow to build up in the stairs and is not maintained.

Shot 1/200 sec. f/7.1 18 mm, ISO 200

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 13 mm, ISO 180

This was taken in mid November and the falls, weren't quite frozen yet but over the winter the water keeps flowing over the ice building massive ice structures, by January, you can hardly see the water flowing. This is the most powerful waterfall in the Canadian Rockies, in the summer , the flow is so strong you can't hear anything but the falls and it looks 3 times bigger, worthy of seeing in both seasons, I really can't pick a favorite. Over the centuries, the flow has shifted and continues to do so as the powerful river carves it's way thru the weak limestone canyon corridors. I recommend doing all the hiking around if you have time but this was just a pit stop because we couldn't help ourselves.

Shot 1/200 sec. f/7.1 18 mm, ISO 200

In the last few years, the region has been battling a Chinese Pine Beetle infection that took hold of our 200 year old forest and decimated the trees. They nest and lay eggs in the core of the tree and the larvae will remain there all winter cutting off the water and food supply to the tree causing the needles to turn red and the tree to eventually turn black. Given the sensitive nature of Nation Parks of leaving nature be nature and the impossibility to control, it's been like watching a slow train wreck that you just can't stop. This adds stress to the dry nature of hot Alberta summers turning everything into one big dry matchbox just waiting for it's fate and adds to the fire suppression concerns of a fragile ecosystem and protecting endangered species both animal and plant.

Taken a few years back, an example of the seriousness of the infection and the damage it is causing all across Jasper, all the orange needles eventually fall off to leave the dark shell of the dead tree

For a while, the devastation looked pretty just the same with the bright orange trees in the mix, something we may never see again but now it's all dark and it may have temporarily lost some of it's charm. I wonder what will we see next? This probably took about a decade to transition to this, this isn't a fast process but it allows science to take place and study more on the subject and how to potentially limit the spread in other locations not yet as affected. Several consecutive weeks of -40 in early winter will kill a large percentage of the larvae reducing the numbers to mature enough to lay eggs the next season but there hasn't been a deep freeze long or early enough to kill them as they develop anti freeze capabilities as they grow older.

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 34 mm, ISO 100. The Totems are at the intersection to the entrance of the Sunwapta Falls parking lot.

Our real destination was to go hiking in the Sunwapta Falls trail network. It's no Athabasca Falls but it's certainly worthy of a visit being shortly down the road from it's more impressive counterpart. The main falls are easy to access and only takes a few minutes from the parking lot also suitable for any fitness level. This quick pit stop for most also has a few hidden gems of it's own to discover if you are looking for a nice afternoon hike. Our intentions was to visit the Lower Falls but we couldn't find the trail, we only saw one passed the bridge and away we went. If you don't know where you are going it could be a disturbing strategy to take! 😂

Shot 1/125 sec. f/5.6 18 mm, ISO 200

We knew one way, we ended up at the Lower Falls after a 2 km walk, the other we would end up at Big Bend waterfall a little over 7 km of hiking also on my bucket list to get to before I get to old for this bush stuff. We were willing to take a gamble and see what happens, the day was young and we were feeling lucky. With the sun keeping near the freezing mark, cleats on our feet and hiking poles in hand, pocket full of joints... down the hill we went like two morons without a care in the world. That was a master plan, smoke and hike to something new. We powered downhill thru the fresh snow like it was nothing, first to have been here in days, felt like half hour had gone by and looking at the time, it had been hours and we were just a couple kilometers away from Big Bend waterfall. Good thing we weren't betting on anything and had an open mind to the outcome!

Shot 1/160 sec. f/6.3 18 mm, ISO 200

We did see in the parking a warning that the bridge at the end is washed out, as much as we wanted to continue, we couldn't make it to the final destination. Looking at the time, if we hurry, we can still catch Lower Falls before sunset, the trail was fairly easy anyway. Except on the way we went down and now we had to climb all the way back up...Ewww...Haha. Didn't feel so powerful anymore! Wonder Woman quickly turned into I wonder if I'll make it out of this trail ... Perhaps I smoked a little too much for this uphill battle! The last kilometer, I was beginning to change my mind about the second power hike...Maybe we should just come back another day.

The cabin isn't from the specific location but I needed another upright pic to complete. While we are on the topic, there is lodging available but only in summer time at the intersection where all this beauty begins. https://www.sunwapta.com/

As we got off the trail and passed the bridge on the way back to the truck, we noticed a trail going up and we looked at the time, there was half hour left until sunset and I felt renewed and full of energy for some reason. With one look, we were on our way down to the Lower Falls for an additional 4 km return to our already long day. We both knew the uphill way back wouldn't be as effortless and in the dark but we both agreed to worry about that later, we had to hustle to get some photography light. For most of the trail, we walked the ridge to a small waterfall or cascade but we had a little further to go until we reached the official falls with a clearing thru the rocks for a spectacular view. Certainly worth the 4 km return walk, turns out the lighting was perfect even for the time of day.

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 18 mm, ISO 200

If there is any daylight left, keep driving down the parkway to the not too distant Tangle Creek Falls, this one is a freebie, it's on the side of the highway and it's a 5 minute climb to the top tier. In the summer it's a nice slow cascading waterfall, in the winter, it turns into the perfect ice wall for beginners to try, popular location with Rockaboo climbing experts and teachers offer lessons and supply the climbing equipment. To climb up to watch the ice climbers in action, you will need cleats for better traction https://rockaboo.ca/. Any climber with experience and their own gear also have access anytime.

Shot 1/250 sec. f/8 18 mm, ISO 200

There you have it folks, a glimpse into the vast Sunwapta Valley, this is just scratching the surface. There are many more trails to lakes and waterfalls to be discovered, much of them are closed for winter. Cheers! X🐞X

All images were taken with Nikon D7000