I lost the board
I had started to catch waves using a board, but one event changed my destiny: my cousin asked me to borrow the board. It turns out that she in turn lent it to a friend of hers who never returned it.
But I had my fins, and with no other option, I started to catch waves "on my chest". Sport is known as Bodysurfing, which in Brazil is popularly known as "Jacaré" or even chest surfing.
The idea is to slide being pushed by the wave energy just with the body and nothing else, but the help of the fins, after you try to use them, is difficult to abandon, as it is a phenomenal aid to maximize propulsion and be able to go further on the wave, or even to get out of unpleasant sea current, if necessary and return to the safety of the beach.
Since that day I never wanted to use a board again, and I became a total fan of this wonderful sport.
All photos on this blog are made by me with a smartphone
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